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The Production Process

In gold jewellery production, first a mould is made for the particular piece. The mould is waxed, after which it is called an “ağaç” (tree), and then covered with plaster and heated at a high temperature to melt the wax. The plaster, which has taken the shape of the wax, is then filled with molten gold. The piece, for example a ring, is taken out of the oven and the plaster cleaned off. The ring is filed smooth and polished, and finally mounted with precious stones.
The stages in manufacturing of the twisted “burma” bracelets, one of the most widely produced styles, are as follows:

The gold is melted and made into wires, which are then brought to the necessary fineness by a rolling mill. With the aid of a drill, the gold is twisted by hand a first time, annealed in the fire, and plunged in an acid bath to restore its colour. The wire is then fined down on a roll-forming machine and cut to measure. The ends of the wire are welded together to form the bracelet, which is then straightened on the straightening device. The pattern is cut on with a milling cutter, and after a final polishing, the burma bracelet is ready for display in the shop window.
Günümüzde üretim sürecine makinelerin dahil olmasının da etkisiyle ağırlıklı olarak modern takılar üretilse de sektörde el emeğinin yoğun olarak kullanıldığı takılar halen imal edilmektedir.

Although the use of machines in manufacturing today has lead to the predominant production of modern styles, jewellery requiring intensive manual labour is still made.

Tools and materials
Small hand tools used to pierce, cut and shape metals include: Rasp, pliers and needle pliers, hammer, chisel, clippers, fret saw, anvil, vice, mandrel, scalers, pointel, welding container and brace.
Large electrical tools: melting furnace, cylinder for casting, rolling mill for wire, vacuum induction melting furnace/cuppola furnace, annealing and enamelling furnace, laser machine, chain machine, milling cutter, polisher, press and welding kit.
Materials and chemicals: Sandpaper, polishing leather, brushes, acids (nitric acid, hydrochloric acid, oil of vitriol), borax, boric acid, sodium bicarbonate, saltpetre, cyanide and test stone.
Weighing and measuring tools: scales, micrometre, callipers, ruler and ring size measures.
Dust refining (“Ramat”): This is the recovery through various processes of the gold dust that falls on the workshop floor during cutting, drilling and sanding of the gold while making jewellery. At certain intervals, the workshop floor is cleared and sent to the “ramatçı” or refiners where the gold dust is separated from foreign materials and melted down to be reused.

The contents of this publication, which has been funded through the 2010 Economic Development Financial Support Programme of the Silk Road Development Agency, does not represent the views of the Silk Road Development Agency and/or the Ministry of Development. The Gaziantep Chamber of Commerce is the sole bearer of responsibility for the contents.